Saturday, May 18, 2019

Day 4 - May 13, 2019 – Jeju Island, South Korea


Jeju Island is quite humid and the hotel even has warning about mosquitos. They call it the Hawaii of Korea.  Flowers are blooming everywhere and there is always a jasmine scent waffling in the air.  Jeju is famous for its tangerines and we can see why.  They are huge and are hanging all over on the trees everywhere.  In fact, we soon find out that the waffling jasmine scent is from the tangerine flowers.

We decided to spend our first day exploring the western side of the island.  Our first stop is Yakcheonsa, advertised as the largest temple in Asia!  The buildings in Seogwipo quickly fade away and we are greeted by green space once again.  Yakcheonsa is indeed BIG.  The building is massive.  This temple was started by one monk and his family.  They even have room & board for pilgrims and tourists to do temple stay.  Our next stop is Jusangjeolli which is a geological attraction featuring hexagonal basalt columns by the shore.  The basalt columns were formed when lava started to cool down and form hexagonal crystals.  These columns are similar to the Giant Causeway in Northern Ireland.
The massive Buddha temple Yakcheonsa

Festival of Lanterns






This deity is believed to protect the local people on the island

Jusangjeolli - hexagonal lava crystal structures



Near Jusangjeolli is the town of Jungmun which is populated with all kinds of mega resorts.  One hotel complex is even built in the form of the kazar structure in Timbuktu.  This reminds me of Las Vagas where you can see Egyptian pyramids, statue of Liberty, and Eiffel Tower, etc.,  We drove next to Sanbansan, a massive and imposing cliff formed by the flow of very viscous lava.  An ancient grotto temple can be reached by climbing up several hundred steps.  This affords us a wonderful view of the entire shoreline.  Following the trail to the shore leads us to a replica of the Dutch ship Hendrick Hamel which ran aground in the 1500s and the crews were detained by the emperor.  Their diaries became the earliest record of Korean society from a foreigner’s point of view.  Eventually, they escaped back home via Japan.

Impressive cliff at Sanbangsan

Sanbangsan

On the way up to the Grotto Temple 

The Grotto Temple on Sanbangsan

View looking down the coast from Sanbangsan


Replica of the Dutch ship
Next to the ship replica is the entrance to the very scenic coastal trail around the cliff base Yongmeori.  Here the sedimentary structure of the cliffs has been eroded by unrelentless wave actions into beautiful and awesome curves and shapes.  Here, at the base of the cliff, we also saw the first of many makeshift eateries for locally caught seafood like sea snails, sea cumcumbers, and octopus.

For lunch, we headed to the nearest village and picked a BBQ restaurant to try the famous Jeju black pig.  We ordered the pork belly and spare rib as well as a cold buckwheat noodle dish.  They are all so so good, especially grilling on real charcoals!  The owner’s wife started to give us a hand on how to do BBQ properly when she saw we obviously have no clue on what to do.  The cold noodles came served in a bowl of shaved ice!  Here we also had our first taste of the Korean rice beer, makgeolli.  It tastes really good and super cheap.  Only 1500W (CAD 1.80) for a 950 ml bottle!  It soon dawned on us that we had ordered way too much food (and we skipped dinner).

Along the Yongmeori coastal hike 






Makeshift seafood eatery at the base of the cliff




Short climb back up to the cliff top

Delicious and famous Jeju Black Pig belly BBQ

Real charcoal BBQ adds to the favour

We drove along the SW side of the island until we hit Hallim before we turned inland to visit the Osulloc Tea plantation.  I was expecting a beautiful idyllic scenic tea plantation like what we saw in Sri Lanka.  Unfortunately, the tea plants here are very tiny and low, and the horizon is punctuated by factory and other buildings.  Worst, the price here is outrageous.  A tiny 100g of tea costs over 50 USD!  Nevertheless, the fancy presentation and polished packaging pay off big time as the throng of tourists just kept snapping up everything on sight!

Osulloc Tea Plantation



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