Monday, July 22, 2019

Day 17 – Jul 8, 2019 Buenos Aires, Argentina

We started our second day of sightseeing in Buenos Aires by visiting Caminito, an open air street art museum in the poor neighborhood of La Boca.  This used to be the dumping ground for other neighborhoods.  To brighten their environment, soccer crazied residents started painting their houses in their favorite team’s color: yellow and blue.  Over the years, other artists also helped out and painted on the building walls as murals.  It is also famed for inspiring the tango tune of the same name.  This neighborhood is actually very small, composing of three streets only, but many houses had deep courtyards which were filled with small shops.  Here in the few restaurants lining the streets, we saw our first tango dance in Argentina.

Although Buenos Aires has an extensive subway system, it is geared mostly toward residents living in the suburbs.  For tourists and residents living in city, it is better to use their crazily complicated bus system.  Luckily, Google Map showed the public transport options so we had been using bus quite a bit during our visit.  The public transportation is unbelievably affordable.  Most rides costed about 20 pesos ($0.60 CAD)!!  It is the best sightseeing bargain of all time.  Just jump on a bus and see where it takes you.  The majority of the buses ran along metrobus corridors along major streets, making hopping on and off very easy.  It’s a different story in the small side street.  You have to look really really carefully to find these bus station markers.  Sometimes, it’s just a painted number on the road beside the sidewalk!

The calm harbor just outside Caminito 
Caminito's colorful neighborhood



Iconic building in Caminito

Wall art

This is a poor immigrant area

Colorful buildings and courtyards

Alleys jammed with artists and shops

Tourists flock to this neighborhood for the look and feel of the wall arts and shops



Tango dance

City bus

From Caminito, we took a bus to Puerto Madero, the newly developed port district with lots of expensive and fancy restaurants and hotel.  We saw naval bands playing along the canal just next to the old frigate ship Sarmiento on their national independence holiday.  Walking along the canal, we arrived at the ferry terminal where we would be taking a ferry to Uruguay tomorrow.  When we inquired about the availability of ticket, we were surprised that all the sailings were sold out tomorrow!  Going to Uruguay by bus would take 8-10h and flying there would be a hassle using the far away EZE international airport.  Luckily, once we clarified that we were planning to go tomorrow and coming back two days later, they had spaces opened up.  They just didn’t have space for same day return tomorrow since everybody planned to come back at the end of their national holiday.

From the ferry terminal, we walked past a gigantic shopping mall converted from a beautiful classical building, Galerias Pacifico, on our way to Teatro Colon, one of the ten best opera houses in the world today.  Unfortunately, all the tours and opera shows had been sold out so we had to wait for future opportunity to see the inside.  From Teatro Colon, it is a short walk to Obelisco, a giant obelisk in the middle of the super-wide 9 de Julio boulevard.  It is erected to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the city’s foundation.

Puerto Madero and the foot bridge Puente de la Mujer

Frigate Sarmiento in the background

Naval band playing to celebrate their national holiday

Skyline of Buenos Aires

Teatro Colon and Obelisco

Teatro Colon

Obelisco

A huge monument to celebrate BA's 400 anniversary

The next destination would be unthinkable in the visit itinerary of other cities, the Cemetery at Ricoleta.  Here is Buenos Aires, a visit to the Recoleta Cemetery is a must for every visitor.  First, throw away all your preconceptions about cemetery.  Here in Recoleta Cemetery, a tomb is not a simple tomb.  It is literally the size of a small house, some with elaborate statues and architectures that rival a church.  They should be called mausoleums instead of tombs.  Starting in 1822, the rich and famous of Buenos Aires had been buried here, including the most famous of them all, Eva Peron (Evita).  You can literally get lost inside this maze of amazing statues and buildings like in a city.  Sadly, you can also see many tombs or mausoleums starting to crumble due to neglect and lack of repair.  There were several that did not even have any marker nor inscription to identify them anymore.  Could the rich and famous have fallen so fast that their descendents cannot even afford to pay the upkeep of their ancestors’ tombs?

Recoleta Cemetry

Streets of tombs inside Recoleta Cemetery



The tombs in the cemetry should all be called mausoleum
Elaborate burial site


Some are as big as a small church

Some are pretty run down

Monday, July 15, 2019

Day 16 – Jul 7, 2019 Buenos Aires, Argentina

We took an early flight back to Buenos Aires this morning on Norwegian Airline.  This is a super low fare airline and you can tell they are super efficient.  They actually do the logical thing and load customers by rows rather than status.  Within 30 minutes, everyone is boarded and ready to depart gate.

Buenos Aires is a big city and famously known as Paris of the South.  During the taxi ride to our hotel, we could see why.  The city streets were all wide, grand, and laden with fancy stately classical buildings.  There were fountains everywhere.  Each square had an impressive statue on it.  No wonder they say Buenos Aires is more European than many European cities.  I chose to stay in the San Telmo neighborhood this trip due to its central location.  Plaza Dorrego and Mercado San Telmo are only 4 blocks away.  We were blown away by the scale and size of Plaza Dorrego’s Sunday market.  It occupied the whole length of the Defensa street from Plaza de Mayo to Ave San Juan, 11 city blocks long!  It was packed with tourists and locals alike with different stalls selling different merchandizes, although after a while, we could see most stalls were selling similar items.  We were disappointed that there were no hints of tango music or performances on Plaza Dorrego, the tango heart of Buenos Aires.  I think it’s most likely due to the winter season here.


We got a bird eye view of Buenos Aries on our flight back from Cordoba



Our hotel in Buenos Aires

Courtyard in our hotel

It has a roof top swimming pool

Sunday market along the whole length of Defensa Streety

Everywhere is people, shoulder-to-shoulder
Wall painting in the San Telmo area



Mercado San Telmo was a pleasant surprise, on the other hand.  There was a giant foodcourt there with all kinds of food stalls.  Most were just gearing up to open at noon.  We tried one of the most tasty empanada and churro here.  We also found a small shop that specialized in chori-pan (a tasty sausage, chorizo, grilled to perfection to be eaten with a toasty hot dog bun), the quintessential Argentinian food.  The whole neighborhood had been revitalized with many quaint shops hiding in small alleys and old historic buildings.  One of them is Pasaje de la Defensa.

Butcher shop inside Mercado San Telmo

We found this authentic churro place insdie

This is how they make such delicious churros.  Extrude the batter into long tube using a mold.  Then cut them into lengths and deep fry them.  Follow by stuff each with sweet filling

Dulce de leche - Argentina's National dessert.  Similar to caramel pudding but made with milk

Giant tasty pollo empanada.  This is the first tasty empanada so far on this trip

Plaza Dorrego

Plaza Dorrego neighborhood has numerous old houses with deep alleys and courtyards filled with quaint shops



It almost feels like treasure hunting.  You don't know what to expect to see in these shops

Pasaje de la Defensa - a historic building turned into shopping mall


Another bcautiful church in the Plaza Dorrego neighborhood

Some decoration ideas to attract tourists are extremely simple and elegant - just hang up a bunch of colorful umbrellas and they will come!

Crowds inside Mercado San Telmo

We found this chap making delicious Choripan - Grilled chorizo sausage on bun

Leaving the San Telmo neighborhood, we walked north toward Plaza de Mayo and visited several historic sites: Parroquia San Ignacio de Loyola and the old city hall Museo Historico Nacional de Cabildo.  Huge Catedral Metropolitana occupied the NW corner of Plaza de Mayo and we visited there next.  This is the stomping ground of Pope Francis before he became Pope.  Casa Rosada, a beautiful pink colored building dominating the front of Plaza de Mayo is where the presidential palace is located.  One of the most famous residents in this building is Eva Peron, or Evita, who almost achieved sainthood due to her advocacy for labor right and poor people in Argentina while she was the wife of president Juan Peron.  Just behind Casa Rosada lies the Museo Casa Rosada which is the excavated remain of an earlier custom house and fort at the harbour.
Cabildo - Old City Hall of Buenos Aires

Plaza de Mayo


Plaza de Mayo is the premier square in Buenos Aires
The plaza is lined with a number of significant historic buildings



Casa Rosada, the President's Residence and Office
This is where the famous Eva Peron greeted the Argentine people



Museo Casa Rosada, located just behind Casa Rosada, displays the excavated old custom house and fort at the old harbor
Museo Casa Rosada



Another shot of the beautiful Plaza de Mayo

Catedral Metropolitana is BA's cathedral

Inside is very grand and filled with statues and altars

Including tombs of famous people

Giant beautifully carved wooden doors inside the cathedral

Pope Francis was the archbishop and then cardinal here in BA before he became Pope

Parroquia San Ignacio de Loyola

Basilica Santo Domingo - an unexpected and richly decorated church with military conflict history with the British.  Hence the soldiers standing guard here at the monument along the Defensa street