Thursday, December 26, 2019

Day 12 – Aug 23, 2019 Mont St. Michel to Normandy to Paris

Today we drove our last leg of the journey from Mont Saint-Michel first to the famous Normandy beaches where the Allies mounted the biggest amphibious assault in history to retake Europe from Nazi Germany and heralded in the end of WWII.  We visited the Utah Beach, Omaha Beach, and Port Winston.  After we had lunch in the historic town Bayeux, we drove the rest of the way back to Paris to return our car to CDG airport, capping our 11 days of driving tour around France.


Utah Beach monument. On D-Day, June 4, 1944, American, Britain, and Canadian soldiers launched the largest amphibious invasion in history
The landings occurred in the morning on five beaches codenamed Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno, and Sword
US troops landed on Utah and Omaha, British troops landed on Gold and Sword, and Canadian troops landed on Juno
The landing was also supported by air and naval bombardment
June 6 was chosen because of a full moon (for illumination) and spring tide (super low tide exposes defensive obstacles placed by enemies)


The invasion almost did not happen on June 6.  Weather conditions were fine in May but steadily worsened in early June with high seas, low clouds, and strong winds.  The decision to go ahead only came after a favorable forecast of a short break in the bad weather
As it happened, Utah Beach was not even the original landing site targeted.  The troops landed 1.8 km further south than originally planned due to wind and current.  All was well at the end and the operation was a big success


Although Nazi army suspected an imminent invasion, they did not believe Allies would attack in such poor weather.  Many German troops stood down or relaxed.  The element of surprise was a big part of D-Day's success
Over 130,000 troops landed on D-Day.  By Day 5, 330,000 troops landed.  A month later, it would grow to one million troops
D-Day is the beginning of the end of German Nazi Empire.  Less than a year later on May 8, 1945, Germany surrendered unconditionally
View of the beach from American Cemetery in Normandy

In total, over 275,000 American soldiers died in Europe/North Africa during WWII.  Over 9000 were buried here in American Cemetery in Normandy.  To thank and honor the Americans who were the heavy-lifters in liberating France, this land was given to US in perpetuity.  It is run and managed by US American Battle Monuments Commission and is the most visited American cemetery with 1 million visitors every year
Casualties from WWII exceeded 16 million soldiers and 45 million civilians on the Allies side.  Over 8 million soldiers and 4 million civilians died on the Axis side
Will we learn this lesson from history?


Lest We Forget!
Arromanches-les-Bains (aka Port Winston) is very popular with tourists
Once the beachhead was secured after D-Day, artificial harbors were towed across the English Channel and dropped on the beach to be used as temporary port to land troops and supplies

This port is name Port Winston to honor Churchill Winston
We stopped by the beautiful historic town Bayeux to have lunch and visited its cathedral
Very charming and picturesque town, Bayeux is home to the famous Bayeux tapestry, which is a rare 11th century embroidered cloth depicting historic events leading up to the Norman conquest of England
River Aure flows through Bayeux
Makes for pretty picture but not so clean water

Day 11 – Aug 22, 2019 Jersey Island to Mont St. Michel

Of all the drives on this trip, today is the shortest drive.  We took a ferry this morning from Jersey back to Saint-Malo on the mainland.  From there, it was a very short one hour drive to one of the most iconic sights in France, Mont Saint-Michel.  We were upset when we paid for the parking at the ferry terminal.  Instead of going by 24h clock (we parked less than 24h), they charged us two days of parking!  To add insults to injury, the machine did not give back our changes, making it one expensive parking lot!

There are several lodging options for visiting Mont Saint-Michel.  Most tourists stay outside in towns outside the park and do a day trip by car or public bus.  There are also accommodations on the island itself along the steep and noisy pedestrian streets leading up to the monastery but these hotels (should be called rooms) tend to be very basic and extremely overpriced.  You also have to lug the luggage uphill yourself!  We stayed in the small village La Caseme which is inside the park and right on the shuttle bus route from parking lot to the monastery.  This allowed us to see Mont Saint-Michel during the day and in the evening at sunset, with a dinner break in between.


The iconic monastery, Mont Saint-Michel, is one of the top sights in France with 3 millions visitors every year
Mont Saint-Michel is a monastery built on a tidal island.  Until a causeway was built in 1879, it was only accessible during low tide
During high tide, water covers the sandy flatland and changes Mont Saint-Michel back into an island once again as shown in this postcard
For centuries, it was a popular destination for pilgrims no doubt due to its awe-inspiring setting
Its strategic location also made it changed hands many times between England and France in its history
The monastery was converted into a prison after the French Revolution
The prison was closed in 1863 and the site was refurbished and protected as a national monument.  Monks have returned since 1966 to the abbey
Three million visitors pass by this main street jammed with restaurants, gift shops, hotels, etc. leading up to the abbey every year
Modern day pilgrims!
This restaurant's claim to fame is the omelette invented by local chef La Mere Poulard
The price list to try this "famous" omelette is not for the faint-hearted!
For centuries, the few island residents have been staying in houses below the abbey
During low tide, some brave souls would walk out to the small island in the middle or all the way across the bay
The walking route along the wall helped us avoid the busy touristy main street


It was quite a climb to reach the abbey on top

This abbey was built in the Romanesque style in the 11th century


Tourists can no longer drive to the island nowadays.  Instead, frequent shuttle buses would take tourists here from the parking lot located 2.5 km away
This new bridge has replaced the old causeway since 2014.  Now the Couesnon River and ocean tides can flow freely around the island, taking away the silt accumulated in the years past

Visitors can choose to walk...
...or ride the frequent but crowded shuttle bus between the island and the parking lot
Staying in the village gave us opportunity to come back and see sunset over Mont Saint-Michel in peace and quiet after most tourists had left
Awesome sight of a landmark.  Seeing Mont Saint-Michel is one of the key reasons we planned this trip!
Lazy meandering Couesnon River framing the magnificent Mont Saint-Michel
Who would guess Normandy sunset can be so stunning!  A breathtaking unforgettable sunset over Mont Saint-Michel
Mont Saint-Michel is so romantic at night after it is beautifully lighted up